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R34 YARD HYDRANTS
TROUBLESHOOTING AND MAINTENANCE

 Water leaks from the nozzle when the hydrant is off.
Check the closing force of the handle. The handle, at the end of the closing stroke, should "snap" closed. Follow instructions below on how to adjust the linkage. The plunger (10108) may be worn or damaged and needs to be replaced. Follow instructions below on how to remove the operating rod. If the hydrant leaks just after installation, the valve seat may be fouled with debris, such as small rocks. The operating rod will have to be removed and the hydrant casing flushed.

 Packing leak. Water leaks from around brass stem below the linkage when the hydrant is on.
The packing nut will occasionally need to be tightened to stop a packing leak. Tighten the packing nut until snug and the leak stops. Persistent leaks will require a new packing (10101).

 Hydrant leaks from below the ground level when the hydrant is on.
A small leak may be the result of a leak at the drain hole. Replace the plunger if it is old and worn. Follow instructions below on how remove the operating pipe. A large leak may be the result of a hole in the pipe casing caused by electrolysis corrosion. Some soil conditions can cause premature failure of the pipe casing near the valve body. Brass pipe is recommended for these conditions.

 Hydrant will not drain when shut off.
Make sure there are no attachments on the nozzle, such as a hose or vacuum breaker. Improper linkage adjustment (not enough tension) may prevent the hydrant from draining properly. A poor drain field around the valve body or a blocked drain hole will prevent drainage.

 Linkage adjustment.
The adjustment can be made with the water supply on by tightening the packing nut enough to hold the hydrant closed. To increase the tension: With the hydrant in a closed position, remove the two linkage screws. Lift the handle out of the way. Turn the pivot block counterclockwise 1-2 full turns. Re-attached the linkage and screws, test the tension of the handle. The handle, at the end of the closing stroke, should "snap" closed. To decrease the tension: Lift the handle part way open and remove the linkage screws. Turn the pivot block clockwise 1-2 full turns. Re-attached the linkage and screws, test the tension of the handle. The handle, at the end of the closing stroke, should "snap" closed.

 Operating rod assembly removal.
Shut off the water supply to the hydrant. Lift the handle to the open position. Remove the two linkage screws and rotate handle out of the way. Unscrew and remove the pivot block from the brass operating rod. Loosen the packing nut. Remove the head casting using two pipe wrenches, one on the pipe and one on the head casting. Remove the operating rod assembly by gripping the steel rod (not the brass stem) with vise grips and prying up. To remove the plunger, use either pipe wrenches or vise grips. When reinstalling the operating rod assembly in the hydrant, first partially screw the pivot block onto the brass stem to protect the threads. Use a soft mallet or a block of wood to drive the plunger into the valve seat. Applying a lubricant that is safe for rubber such as silicone on the plunger rubber will aid in seating the rubber. Remove the pivot block from the brass stem and reinstall the head casting. Adjust the linkage to the proper tension.